AN OVERVIEW
Designed
by noted architect Fred
H. Elswick of what was later to become known as Arrasmith,
Wichmeyer, & Elswick,The Louisville Municipal Boat
Harbor was built in 1935-36 as WPA (Works Progress Administration)
District 6 Project #110 and is located at 1300 River Road in Louisville
KY. Built under the supervision of George H. Goodman, director of
the Works Projects Administration in Kentucky from 1934-42, it was among
numerous schools, hospitals, courthouses, libraries, municipal
buildings, and other public works projects built by Mr. Goodman.
These
include The University of Louisville School of Law and Speed Scientific
School, The Iroquois Amphitheater, and expansion of Bowman Field
including major additions to the Administration Building.
Until
it was closed by Louisville Waterfront Development Corporation in 2005, The
Harbor was believed to be
at least the oldest continuously operating
municipal harbor on The Ohio River and among the oldest surviving inland
recreational harbors in the entire country. As evidenced by its inclusion in a
series of 1940’s Illinois Central Railroad postcards that also included St.
Louis Cathedral, New Orleans; The Mississippi River Bridge at Vicksburg; and
Confederate Park in Memphis; it was once considered a major attraction and an
engineering marvel. In spite of municipal indifference and neglect, its
ingenious design has survived the test of time and the whims of the mighty Ohio
for 70 years.
Since 1956, The Louisville Harbor Association, a
non-profit group, had leased the property from the City of Louisville (now
Louisville Metro). For half a century, its members were solely
responsible for the daunting task of operating and maintaining the harbor.
This was done through a membership system based on seasonal slip rentals
and community involvement. The Association welcomed all without
regard to race, creed or social status. The only requirement for membership
was a love of boating, sense of community, self-sufficiency, and respect
for the awesome power of the Ohio River. The membership represented every possible social status from student, to blue-collar worker, to
professional, to academic, to retiree.
The Harbor Association
always fulfilled its financial responsibilities
to The City and most significantly acted as a concerned steward of a little
known public treasure. Diligent preservation of the last remaining pristine,
riverine public space in The City was the highest priority. In the Fall of
2005, The Association was given notice to vacate at the end of the current
boating season to make way for private mega-development. There are many who
feel that although renovation, expansion, modernization, and controlled
development is desirable, the current scenario is a dubious use of land that
would interrupt the continuity of public green spaces between The Louisville
Waterfront Park and The Beargrass Nature Preserve. This proposed development
may also forever erase
The Harbor from its hard earned place in the historic fabric of the community.
FROM CANOES TO POWER CRUISERS
Before one can understand the
role The Louisville Municipal Harbor has played in local river life, it is necessary to touch
on the local history of The Ohio River. River transportation is driven by
expansion and commerce. In the early days of the western expansion of the 18th
century, people and goods traveled the Ohio by canoe, raft, and flatboat.
Louisville became a transit center and the metropolis simply because The Falls
of the Ohio formed a natural obstacle that interrupted waterborne travel at Louisville. With
the invention of steam power and improvements in navigation, the early craft eventually evolved into the
classic grand riverboats of the 19th and early 20th
century.
Although local area
navigation was vastly improved with the circumvention of The Falls of the Ohio
by the construction of Portland Canal in 1830, by the time following WWI, the need to further “tame” the wildly
fluctuating water levels, shifting bars, and snags that constantly endangered
the movement of goods and passengers on the “Western Rivers” was of
critical importance to the continued growth of the nation. The U. S. Army
Corps of Engineers was given the responsibility to “pave the way” for
routine interstate commerce using the rivers of the Mississippi River
Watershed. This was done through the construction of an extensive series of
locks and dams.
Among the most daunting of
challenges was the “Falls of the Ohio” at Louisville KY. Although the
private Portland Canal and Lock had been in operation since the 1830's, major
improvement in the river conditions did not occur till 1927 when a movable
weir dam with a navigable pass was built in conjunction with a hydroelectric
power project of the Louisville Gas and Electric Company. This structure was
known as Locks and Dam #41 (later renamed McAlpine). Its completion stabilized
what is now known as The McAlpine Pool extending from Louisville to The
Markland Locks and Dam some 75 miles upriver. Although the winter and spring
was still a time of ice, flood and peril. This stretch of The Ohio now had a
reasonably predictable minimum year round navigable depth of at least 9 feet
and was generally stable.
This stability gave rise to
new urban phenomena, “The River Rat”. These were folks that literally
lived on the river in hand built “shanty boats” that were direct descendants
of the flatboats and rafts of an earlier time. Often uneducated and
transient, these unconventional riverine families and their lifestyle were
variously perceived as either idyllic, craven, or at worst criminal. Their
“homes” were often without any modern sanitation or internal propulsion
and were moved from place to place by oar, pole, power skiff, or cabin boat (a
small pushboat). They generally existed at the pleasure of local authorities,
but were tolerated due to
the labor and specialized skills they supplied.
Although these folks had been on the river in one form or another for
at least 100 years, by 1927, the time of the McAlpine pool and the
“conquering” of the river, most local authorities were opposed to the
presence of these “drifters” on the doorsteps of their cities. They were forced to the fringes and otherwise
uninhabitable riverside areas of the towns and cities; often building shore
dwellings from available materials in an attempt to escape the spring and
winter tumults and normalize life for their families.
By the 1920’s such
was the area called “The Point”. This area was the triangular area roughly
bounded by the Ohio River to the north, the old Beargrass Creek channel to the
south, and Ohio Street to the east. Although its was the first true eastern
suburb, it was soon bypassed
by the developing Metropolis. In the late 1920’s and early 1930’s The City
of Louisville decided to acquire the land on the premise of using it to extend
the planned Parks System. This was to be accomplished by the systematic
condemnation of large tracts of land in the area.
The residents of the
affected areas were strongly opposed to this action, including some incidents
of civil disorder. Although many residents of The Point were the dreaded “River
Rats” and had no formal claim to the land they occupied, most were
legitimate property and business owners. In the end, the flood of 1937
destroyed most of the shanty boats and other modest squatters dwellings. Later
that year, the acquisition was finally completed with the buyout of the
legitimate landowners.
The Point neighborhood was effectively erased from the map by
order of The Louisville Parks and Recreation Board. They decreed that the last
142 structures be "razed to 2 feet below ground level and the entire area
surveyed for future park development". Although it is unclear if this
directive was ever carried out, the 1945 Flood surely did the job for them.
The entire area south of The Harbor was then turned into what would become Thruston
Park. As Louisville's original waterfront park, it remained the major east-end urban recreational area until
Interstate 64 construction in the early 60's relegated the area to an isolated
backwater.


The early 20th century also found a new group of adventurers
appearing on the river. Driven by new relatively light internal combustion
engines, recreational boaters could now be seen piloting their vessels to and
fro. Late spring saw the larger cruisers launched from the downtown wharf from
wagons or improvised
trailers by tractor or mule team and
cruised to a mooring for use in the summer
and fall. In a practice that continues to this day, most of these were later hauled from the river and
stored on land to avoid the ice
and floods of the winter and spring. Smaller runabouts and skiffs were stored
on the shore and launched as needed. Consequently, the shoreline up and down
river became dotted with the occasional dock, floating boathouse/club, or
wharf boat where the boat owners and their newly fashionable vessels could
congregate.
Soon, a new type of
vessel appeared. These were predecessors of the houseboats of today. Self
propelled and often magnificently appointed, they were a direct descendent of
the previously reviled shanty boats. Moored in a protected area or to a wharf
boat year round, they would rise and fall at the pleasure of the river’s
seasonal moods in relative safety. Rather than traveling to a summer home,
these inland “yachtsmen” now had easy use of their floating cottages to
relax in the company of friends and family. The various related activities
soon outstripped the facilities available to cater to them. By 1930, suitable
moorings were becoming scarce.
THE HARBOR IS BORN
In the early 30’s it was decided that the City
should have it’s own small boat harbor and it would be named The Louisville
Municipal Yacht Basin. Although credit for this far sighted decision eludes
us, a look at the early Louisville Municipal Harbor (as it was renamed) reveals
some fascinating history.
The receipt books of The Parks and Recreation Board show that the early patrons
were among the most famous and wealthiest citizens of Louisville including the
founder of Brown Forman, Owsley Brown, the inventor of the modern baseball bat,
Bud Hillerich, members of the Bullitt family, and many well known state and local political
figures. These well-heeled pillars of local society no doubt supplied the
impetus behind the founding of the new harbor. Their newfangled craft would be
the centerpiece for the planned park development to the east of downtown.

It was decided to construct the harbor adjacent
to the river behind Towhead Island. This area had originally been the very
first Louisville suburb where wealthy citizens built magnificent summer
homes along the River at Fulton St. The area was also known for
shipbuilding, pottery manufacture, and in earliest times, as the site of
the Geiger Ferry. This was the first regular service to unite Louisville
with the Indiana shore and is credited for giving rise to the town of
Jeffersonville IN.
An area at the foot of Ohio Street was
chosen and construction began in September of 1935 as W.P.A. Project # 110
District 6 Louisville KY. Financed by $25,000 of local funds and $125,000 in
federal funds planners called for a huge excavation totally
independent of the river. Only when the harbor was largely complete would the
earthen dikes at each end be removed to allow the river to claim what was
previously meadow, marsh, and floodplain.


A small army of workers and the latest heavy equipment was brought to bear. The Harbor began to take shape just downriver
of Beargrass Creek. Construction was aided by the 3rd lowest river levels ever
recorded (6.0 ft on 02/05/1936). It grew into a cavernous 1200 X 120 X 12 foot deep crescent nestled
behind Towhead Island. The secondary piling and timber reinforced rampart
of the newly created Harbor Island offered added protection from the main
river. Pilings were driven; docks, boardwalks, roads, and
automobile parking was constructed.
The ingenious design with its dual
protective islands and downriver slanted interior docks made every possible
concession to minimize the river’s annual delivery of tons of debris and
silt. The lay along berths of The Harbor Island were parallel to the often
vicious current
and allowed the secure mooring of large deeper draft vessels. To ease in
the access and provisioning of these vessels, a robust bridge able to support
wagons, carts, and other small conveyances was built to connect the harbor
island to the shore.
The downriver slanted docks of the interior
harbor made it possible for the pilots of the small and medium sized vessels
to safely enter and leave the slips in the often swift current using the
pilings as a pivot point. Without this feature, safe, cross current docking
during high water periods would be impossible. An interesting bonus to this
arrangement was that the current pushed most of the river’s debris under or
over the
docks and down the
slanted sides of the moored boats allowing it to continue its downriver
journey instead of massing into a jam that would, at best, eventually clog and
fill the harbor with silt, or at worst, create a log jam with the potential to
destroy the docks and carry them away.


On July 26 1936 Mayor Neville Miller grabbed a
spade and breached the earthen dike to allow the mighty Ohio to fill the newly
renamed Louisville Municipal Yacht Harbor. It is ironic that less than a year
later, Mayor Neville would preside over Louisville as the river did its best
to erase this accomplishment, and everything else. The record 01/27/37
flood crest of 52.15 ft (the highest ever recorded) ravaged the surrounding area, but with the exception of massive amounts of
mud, the
harbor survived more or less intact.
The City eventually repaired and reopened the
again renamed Louisville Municipal Boat Harbor under the jurisdiction of The
Louisville Parks and Recreation Board. The area became tremendously popular.
By
the end of 1940, The Harbor had been enlarged from the original 120
slips to 140 by adding to the area downstream of the original basin and
aided by
easy access on the nearby interurban trolley lines of The Louisville Railway
Company (1898-1948) which was also used to move boats to and from the
harbor, it soon became the
preferred area for a family outing or picnic.
There was no end to the sights
to be seen; beautiful automobiles delivering their well heeled owners to and
from their boats, vessels of all sizes and descriptions coming and going as
they merged with the normal river traffic of grunting tugs and majestic
riverboats on their normal trips to and from The Louisville Wharf a little
more than a mile down river. The annual parade of boats was a popular event
and occasionally, a biplane from the newly built Bowman Field would actually
land on the long straight flat areas near “The Harbor”. Sadly, world events would bring an abrupt end to this rousing
scene.
THE WAR YEARS
Dec 7, 1941 changed
everything forever. Gone was the innocence and optimism of a generation that
had emerged from The Great Depression. Gone were the crowds of holiday
revelers. In its place was a city transformed overnight to a war footing. land
previously acquired at great effort for parks and public space was enlisted into the war effort.
Petrochemical and commodity terminals now filled
“The Point” and merged with the existing downtown industry.
With
wartime austerity and gas rationing, there was little future for the masses in
an unpatriotic, gas guzzling pastime such as power boating. Only the wealthy and well connected could afford the pleasures and respite
that cruising
the river offered. Even this indulgence was interrupted and The Harbor
besieged by major flooding in 1943 (33ft).
Unfortunately, the prevailing NE
winds soon brought the smell and noise of the war effort to the hand built
luxury cruisers and houseboats. If this was not bad enough, Beargrass Creek
was steadily delivering the waste and pollution of the packing plants and
Butchertown industry to the docks that were once “the place to be”.
On Mar 8 1945, The Ohio River again ravaged the area with the 2nd highest flood crest ever recorded,
42.10 feet. Many of the wealthier boat owners had had enough and began to move to the more gentile environs of the
boating clubs and elite riverside moorings upriver. Although recently finished
Thruston Park with it's magnificent fountain and playing fields had completed
the early goals of converting the entire area into a public recreational
asset, The Harbor was left to
those willing to endure the stench. A catastrophic freeze and another major
flood in 1948 (36 ft) sealed its fate. Things at 1200 River Road were much
more uncertain than in the heady days of the late 1930’s.
Just up the hill to
the north, returning service men and unemployed wartime workers had created a
new “Point” area called “The Flats”. This was a tough, forgotten part
of town laying between The Harbor and Butchertown. The Harbor had now been
effectively cut off
from the social mainstream of Frankfort Avenue and St. Matthews.
In the early 50's a strange thing
happened, the “River Rats” returned. They were now primarily, but not all, shore dwellers. Most had regular homes,
jobs, and families. Their shanty boats were replaced by more modern vessels.
Gone were the fine chauffeured automobiles and afternoon teas or the pre war
elite. Now, modest coupes and pickup trucks would be seen delivering
workingmen, and women, to their cold Oertels after a hard day at the plant. The Harbor had
transformed into a working class neighborhood. On weekends, instead of going
to their “country homes”, these regular folks would simply cast off, head
upriver, and take their homes to the country. The modern day River Rats were
back… maybe they had really never left.
THE CITY BOWS OUT
By 1956, The City of Louisville had all but abandoned The Harbor as too
burdensome. The Dept of Parks and Recreation, who was responsible for its
operation, seems to have lacked the will or the resources to manage the aging
facility. In the face of municipal neglect, the
newly formed Louisville Harbor Association entered into an agreement with The
City to assume responsibility for day to day operations and maintenance. The
LHA has acted as its sole steward ever since.
Sadly, all of the original members have passed away and to date, much of the
documentary evidence from this period has yet to come to light. What is known is The
LHA stabilized The Harbor into a sustainable and thriving safe haven for river
boaters who preferred the simple, proven, traditional ways. Their innovations
and dedication have instilled a tradition of self sufficiency that continues to
serve as their tribute. These hearty souls considered their vessels as an
extension of their regular homes and spent most of their free time
"knocking about on boats" and working on The Harbor.
By
the early 60's The Harbor had survived seven major floods including three of the top 5 ever
recorded. The original work had been of such high quality that although
it was still structurally sound, it was beginning to show its age. The
LHA decided to update using more moderns materials. Demolition of the
original seawalls was out of the question. This would have caused the
shoreline and the Harbor Island to collapse into the river.
The
original plan by Capt. Alan Bates, MA and former Captain of The Belle of
Louisville, called for the installation of steel sheet piling. It is not
know exactly why the plan changed, but the final solution performed by
Capt. G. W. McBride, was to drive steel I beams along the shoreline and
around the Harbor Island and lay in pre-stressed concrete sections. On
their own, this would not have been sufficient to stabilize the
shoreline, but with the reliable 1935 seawalls and their concrete
encased steel tie rods doing most of the work; this ingenious solution
has survived to this day with minimal maintenance.
In the
early 60's the 1964 flood crest of 41.20 ft. ( the 4th highest on record) made
for some interesting situations. Marine Sales and Service , the major
local boat dealer at the time, was originally on 2nd Ave. during the '64
flood, the vessels on the showroom floor were actually floated out the
front door and driven to The Harbor and moored with the Winter fleet. It
seems The Harbor was often the only safe haven when the mighty Ohio
flexes her muscles.
If
the '64 flood wasn't bad enough, the
federal annexation of the I-64 corridor and subsequent razing of
Thurston Park further isolated the area. Before long, most Louisville
citizens didn't even know it even had a Municipal Harbor and it disappeared
from the community radar screen. With the exception of happily accepting the
yearly rent. The City of Louisville also turned a blind eye.
Sometime during this period, The LHA managed to acquire use of another
neglected municipal property now know as Paget House. It was the last
remaining Victorian mansion on Fulton Street and was promptly renamed The
Riverview Boat Club.
The LHA now had a proper headquarters. Of course,
The City soon had a grand scheme to lease the property to a developer as an
upscale restaurant and the LHA was evicted. The plan failed and The City
refused to allow the LHA its continued use. Louisville's first officially sponsored
riverfront development scheme would ultimately have a very negative
effect. It wasn't long till vagabonds occupied and torched the place. Its
stabilized shell is listed on The National Register of Historic Places. It
stands today as a monument to official neglect and poor municipal judgment.
THE QUIET YEARS
By the 70's and 80's, the members now had the expertise and the equipment
to efficiently perform the Herculean tasks necessary for sustainable
harbor operations. For those willing accept the blighted surroundings, relentless
mud, and constant vigilance traditional fixed docks demanded, it remained
accessible to the average boat owner as the best value on the river. This gave
access to the river to the average family who would otherwise never have been
able to afford such an financially demanding hobby and fueled a robust local recreational
boating economy. Indeed it became more of a lifestyle than
a hobby and most who
joined stayed on indefinitely. The Harbor was always full from June thru
October and the wait for a slip was often measured in years.
The Harbor had also become the only actively managed way station for
transient boaters in the Louisville Area. Many boats coming and going from
distant home ports would stop and enjoy the hospitality and inexpensive overnight mooring The Harbor offered.
It was not unusual for a retired
cruising couple to stop and stay a few days to re-provision or do necessary
repairs on their way and to or from The Gulf or The Great Lakes. This was
aided by easy access to Marine Sales and Service, Arnolds, and
other nearby maintenance resources. The harbor
members would help in any way they could, after all, there was no organized governmental safety net or river rescue service in those
days... the
boating community had to take care of their own.
Although most owners in the area are very knowledgeable and skilled, some
are less than expert. Members often help others after a minor groundings or sometimes not so minor
calamity. The appearance of the occasional "marina
queen" from the floating marinas upriver was a constant source of
amusement and sometimes irritation. The inexperienced
owners often found themselves limping into The
Harbor with their "captains" hat in their hands. They were
always given a cordial if less than enthusiastic welcome and given whatever assistance
they needed to return to
their home berths.
By 1985, affordable dock space was again at a premium and The Harbor was
one of the few remaining affordable river homes for many area boaters. The exception was the
Jeffersonville IN shore. It was lined with houseboats of every possible
description but this was soon to end. About this same time, most of these
traditional houseboaters were informed they would have to move to make
way for redevelopment. This was to be the first battle of development vs.
the boaters. The boaters were powerless in the face of their better
financed and organized foes and were soon forced
out. Condos and restaurants were eventually built and the well kept
fixed docks on the Indiana shore soon crumbled and disappeared. It seems the
River Rats were once again an endangered species. The Harbor was now one of
the last
bastions of the traditional ways.
Unfortunately, rising fuel and maintenance costs began to take a toll on
the boating community and The Harbor. It became increasingly difficult to
maintain The Harbor with available revenues. The Harbor had previously had
several full time employees including a caretaker and a maintenance
person, but they were soon released and many chores were outsourced on an as
needed basis. To make up for the shortfall in resources, the members were
forced to take on an increasing load.
THE MODERN ERA
Despite
the difficulties modern times presented, The Harbor continued to flourish. A
little run down and a little tired, plans were made to begin sprucing the
place up and major improvements were planned... but things were about to
change... again.
Historically,
the Ohio River had consistently
and definitively rejected any and all attempts at residential
development in the area. Just the same, in 1989, Louisville and the
recently formed Waterfront Development Corporation secured commitments
from a "preferred developer" to build Falls Harbor... a
residential development. The Harbor was to be
modernized and updated, and the current managers, The LHA, would
continue to operate a revitalized Harbor much as before.
In
1994, Louisville Waterfront Park Phase I was completed and the USACE
finally authorized construction of Falls Harbor. It had taken 5 years to
overcome the regulatory challenges and negotiate an acceptable
settlement. Unfortunately for the developer, the flood of 1997 (39.17 ft)
underscored the wisdom of the far-sighted 1935 decision to reserve the
area for parkland and public green space. Financing dried up, and the
diminishing quality of the development soon compelled the city to
cancelled the agreement. By 1999 the
project had died on the vine.
The
'97 flood was truly a horrific event. and the winter fleet rose to the
level of the electric lines on the Harbor Island... Winter fleet was the
mooring of vessels
in a large
group in the inner harbor with steel vessels at the front as a defense against the winter
and spring floods.
Some
of the more dedicated members actually rode the flood out on their
vessels and fought to keep them and those of others secure. When the
river finally returned to it's banks, The flow and velocity had been so
great, a large portion of the Nugent Sand inventory had swept downstream
into The Harbor. This can still be seen covering The Harbor
Island.
After
taking inventory of the situation and working feverishly to clear the
Harbor for the 1998 boating season, the LHA decided the risk to life and
property of maintaining the winter fleet was just too great and the
practice was discontinued. The onset of Winter now saw owners forced to move their vessels to the
much more expensive private marinas upriver. This was another major setback to the Harbor as
it increased the personal financial strain on the members and cut yearly revenue by a sizeable percentage; no winter fleet... no
winter income.
Ten
years of adversity and uncertainty had taken a toll on The Harbor. Since no one could be
sure what was going to happen year to year, and keeping a large river
cruiser accommodated takes long range planning, many boat owners could not wait for
the Aldermen to decided what was going to happen next. Some members
began moving to less controversial surroundings. As time passed, membership dropped, and
money for maintenance and infrastructure became even
tighter. It seems to be a bewildering fact of life that whenever a municipality strives to
"reconnect" with the river, the folks that use, understand, and love
it the most... the traditional boaters, are the victims. Uninformed governmental meddling meant to
improve and enhance the recreational boating infrastructure of the area
had in fact grievously harmed the very constituency it had been meant to
help.
The
next governmental initiative occurred in 2003-04. Under the leadership of Mayor Dave Armstrong, a deal was proposed to give Nugent
Sand some of the former Thruston Park for a small upscale residential
development in exchange for Towhead Island. The Island would be turned
into a nature preserve along with the remaining land.
Although
this proposal would probably have been the best for them, the LHA was
bound by conscience, community service , and a unique familiarity with
Towhead and the immediate area to step forward. They respectfully pointed out that
the proposal would trade valuable public land for an island that was
washing away. Of course this came as a shock to everyone
else and effectively quashed the plan. It was now hoped The LHA could get back
to boating, rebuild the membership, and work to update
The Harbor. . . Of course this would not be the case.
In
late 2004, WDC announced they had once again found a "preferred
developer" to build what was to be known as RiverPark Place. As the
plan progressed and rapidly grew in size and scope, The LHA and others became increasingly
alarmed at the lack of public inclusion in the planning process. In spite of the lessons
of the past, WDC was to proceed unilaterally and the boaters would
once again be the victims.
To
make way for this development and after absolutely no collaboration or
negotiation on the future of The Harbor, on Oct. 21 2005, the LHA was
formally notified that their lease would not be renewed. After 50 years
of service to The City of Louisville and it's citizens, the boaters that
make up the Louisville Harbor Association were to be turned out with one
month's notice. This was at best a callous and insensitive abuse of
these loyal citizens.
Fortunately,
the federally mandated restrictions and certifications meant to assure
public safety and safeguard historic, archaeological, religious,
environmental, and public interest concerns have once again stalled the
project... due in part to the justifiable concerns of community
advocates and members of the LHA. The insurmountable problems
encountered in 1989-99 still rule the day and it seems the lure of quick
profit and self interest has resulted in a monumental case of
governmental amnesia.
In the mean time, The
Harbor lies neglected for the first time since ground was broken in
the Fall of 1935. Instead of the normal activity to prepare
for the upcoming boating season, the Ohio River is slowly reclaiming her.
THE FUTURE
To
be determined...
UNDER
CONSTRUCTION